Should it be required to attend to the spindles or links of the fork only, there is of course no need to remove the fork. It is, however, not possible to take out one spindle separately, and two should always be removed together as follows (the procedure is the same for top or bottom spindles except that to remove the bottom ones it will also be necessary to take out the bolt securing the shock absorber plate to the girder) :-
Raise the front of the machine and support the frame at the front end, preferably so as to leave the front tyre just lightly resting on the ground. Take off both nuts from the nearside ends of the spindles which are to be removed. Tap the link off the spindles. Tap the offside link away from the machine towards the right, and it will pull both spindles out of position with it. Provided that these spindles are not turned in the link they should need very little re-adjustment after re-assembly.
Each spindle bears in two bushes. There are no left-hand threads used in the construction of the fork assembly.
Disconnect the positive wire and horn cable from the rear terminal on the battery. Remove the headlamp front and disconnect all wires from the switch (Figs. 56 and 57). Take off the lamp by taking out the bolts securing the brackets to the fork. Disconnect the flexible speedometer drive from the reduction gearbox on the brake-plate (Fig. 6), and remove the speedometer.
As described on page 18, disconnect the front brake-cable from the lever on the handlebar.
Completely unscrew the steering damper knob and pull it up with the rod, star spring, and locating-plate. Remove the four bolts securing the handlebar to the top-clip of the fork, raise the handlebar out of position and pull back and rest it on the top of the fuel tank. At once refit the two half-clips and four bolts to the top-clip in the positions they occupied originally.
Should any work be being undertaken to the fork take out the front wheel, after supporting the machine with a box or block of wood placed under the front end of the frame. Loosen the clamping bolt in the top clip and remove the steering-column lock-nut. Take out the bolt securing the top lug of the spring to the top-clip and tap the lug out of the taper. Tap the top-clip clear of the column and pull out the column from the steering head. Care must be taken to catch the balls from the lower head bearing. There should be nineteen in each race.
Before refitting the steering column and fork to the frame check the condition of the cups in the frame and the cones which are fitted to the column. Should there be the slightest signs of pitting, new cups, cones and balls must be fitted. To refit the fork to the machine, first smear stiff grease into the bearing cups in the frame and stick the balls (19 ¼-in. diameter in each) into place. Push the steering column up from below and whilst supporting it firmly in place put on the cone at the top and tap it down into position. Fit the dust-cap and then slip the top-clip into place and fit and screw down the lock-nut. This should be tightened down just far enough to leave the column free in its bearings without any trace of play. When checking the adjustment see that the fork spring is not catching the head-lug of the frame. Refit and tighten the clamping pin in the top-clip. The remainder of the work is just a reversal of operations described previously and does not call for special mention.