In order to fit a new clutch cable or outer casing, it will be necessary to take off the fuel tank as the cable is clipped to the top tube of the frame below the tank. This is described in the section dealing with decarbonisation. Pull up the clutch control lever, grasp the outer casing firmly just ahead of the lever socket and pull sharply towards the centre of the machine as the lever is smartly released, slipping the casing at the same time out of the recess in the lever socket. Remove the cable stop from the cable stop holder on top of the gearbox and unscrew the stop holder right out.
Hold this up out of the way under the Oil tank and disconnect the small cable nipple from the slotted connecting piece just inside the gearbox by sliding the cable sideways.
If a replacement cable is to hand with the casings, adjuster, and nipples already fitted up, it can be fitted straight away and the adjustment reset, but if a new cable is to be fitted to the original casings with the old adjuster, it must be well oiled or greased before being threaded through. Do not oil or grease the end to which the nipple is to be soldered, as this will make soldering difficult.
The approximate position in which to solder the nipple can usually be found by slipping the nipple into place up the wire, with the counter¬sunk side of the hole away from the casing. Check off the position for it against the old wire. When the position has been decided hold the cable below the nipple with pliers, and bend the short end of the wire sharply against the nipple. Clean the wire and solder the nipple in place against the bend. Cut off the excess wire close to the nipple, and spread the strands of wire into the countersunk recess of the nipple. These strands can be lightly hammered down to spread them well. Heat up the solder again to ensure a good joint, and to fill the countersunk hollow in the nipple, and when cold trim off excess solder to allow the nipple to enter into the recess in the connecting piece.
Thread the cable assembly into place and slip the cable stopholder over the end. Slide the nipple sideways into the connecting piece, screw the stop holder into place and put the cable stop into position.
Adjust the clutch spring holder clock-wise until the clutch is in a slightly slipping condition when checked by pressing down the Foot-starter. See that the cable adjuster is screwed up to its limit to make it as "short" as possible. Connect the nipple and outer casing to the handle-bar lever. Set the cable-adjuster so that there is JUST no free movement perceptible at the handle-bar end and tighten the lock-nut on the adjuster. Screw the clutch spring holder anti-clockwise until free movement is restored in the cable, and lastly refit the Fuel tank. See also page 49, dealing with clutch adjustment, etc.