Raise the Machine on to the rear stand. Select neutral position of the gears.

To make the adjustment, take off the circular plate on the front part of the rear chain cover. A transfer on the plate indicates its purpose. It is held by two screws. Take from the tool kit the adjusting tool, a small steel rod ¼-in. in diameter with a flat at one end. This tool or peg should be pushed through the hole in the small rear Driving-sprocket, so that the end with the flat can engage with one of the recesses in the Clutch Spring-holder. It may be necessary to turn the Sprocket a little either way if the hole is not exactly opposite a recess. Having engaged the peg with a recess, pull the rear wheel forward about a quarter of a turn to move the Sprocket. This turns the Spring holder in the clutch front plate to restore the freedom in the operating mechanism. Freedom will be indicated by the appearance once more of free movement on the clutch cable. Should this not be enough, pull the wheel forward a little further. If it is too much, pull it slightly backwards until the correct adjustment (3/16 -in. freedom) is obtained.

Should it happen that, owing to the adjustment having been neglected, the Clutch is in a badly slipping condition, or if the Spring-holder is a very tight fit in the outer or front Clutch-plate and will not turn without moving the Plate with it, engage 2nd or 3rd gear before trying to turn the Sprocket. The differential action of the gears will then give the necessary relative movement between the spring holder and the front plate but it will be necessary now to move the wheel BACKWARDS to increase the free movement instead of forward, as was done when working with gears in neutral. If this point is remembered no trouble should be encountered.

In the event of the Clutch slipping when there is already free movement in the cable, this usually shows that the thrust cup is hard up against the gearbox and that consequently there is no freedom in the clutch thrust bearing, the slackness being due to the Cable adjuster itself (under the fuel tank) requiring taking up a trifle. In such a case the play in the cable should be taken up first and when this has been done and the lock-nut tightened on the adjuster, the Spring-holder should be turned anti-clockwise to restore the free movement in the thrust bearing. Generally, however, the cable does not require re-adjustment in normal use as it does not stretch, but the outer casing may settle down and compress slightly, which of course has the same effect.

The Cable Adjuster is situated between two halves of the outer casing on the control cable, under the fuel tank.

The presence of oil, even in excess, in the chain cover and on the friction surfaces cannot cause the Clutch to slip, provided that the adjustment of the Clutch is correct.


If for any reason the Clutch is not working properly, and it is not immediately clear in what way the adjustment is at fault, the best method of resetting the adjustment correctly is as follows :

Slacken off the Cable-Adjuster fully and slip the cable Nipple out of the Handle-bar Lever. See that the Clutch is in a slightly slipping condition by pressing down on the Footstarter as a test. If it is not slipping, turn the Spring-holder clockwise until the Clutch slips slightly on being tried. Now refix the Cable-nipple to the Lever and reset the Cable- Adjuster until there is just no free movement noticeable at the Handlebar-Lever. When this has been done, and the lock-nut on the adjuster has been tightened, screw back the Spring-holder anti-clockwise until the usual 3/16-in. free movement on the cable is obtained. Should the Clutch then fail to work properly it will be necessary to dismantle it for a detailed examination, as the Thrust bearing or Inserts may require renewal.