To check the level of oil in the engine remove the dipstick from the left hand side of the crankcase below the oil filler plug. Fig. 1. To get a true reading the machine must be standing upright and the dipstick should be wiped on a clean rag after removal, re-inserted, and then finally removed for the check.

If checking after the engine has just been running allow a few moments for surplus oil to drain back to the sump from the interior of the crankcase otherwise a false ' low' reading may be obtained.

The dipstick will hold firmly in the taper if just pushed home. Do not turn it to catch under the overhang of the casing. This will cause leakage.

Oil Changes

The crankcase must be drained periodically and afterwards refilled with fresh oil. The mileages at which changes must be made, as quoted in the Owner's Handbook are the maximum distances in all cases. In some conditions of service more frequent changes are advisable. Clean oil is always preferable to that which has been used, and the slightly increased expense of changing the oil more frequently than is stated will often be repaid in increased mileages between overhauls. This is particularly evident with machines that run frequent short trips during which the engine barely reaches normal running temperatures, and cools down between each journey.

Drain and refill the sump after 500 miles if the engine is new or has been fully reconditioned. No attention need be given to the fabric oil filter until 10,000 miles have been covered. At this distance replace the filter element with a new one. Throw away the old element. Do not try to clean it.

In normal working conditions change the engine oil every 1,200 miles after the first change at 500 miles.


The oil level should be kept up to the filler plug opening. Check with the machine standing upright. If necessary top up until the oil just does not overflow. Preferably check after the oil has had time to drain off the interior of the casing.

Drain after the first 1,200 miles, and refill with fresh oil. Thereafter do this every 3,000 miles.

Final Drive Casing

The level of oil is correct when it is up to, but just not overflowing from the level plug hole. The machine to be standing upright. Oil can be added from a syringe or force feed oilcan through the filler plug hole.

Drain and refill with fresh oil after the first 1,200 miles use, thereafter every 3,000 miles.

Preferably drain oil from the gearbox and final drive casing when the oil is hot after a run. It will drain quicker and any sediment in suspension in the oil will come away.

The Front Fork

The oil that is put into the fork struts during original manufacture is sufficient to last almost indefinitely, or at least until a full overhaul of the machine is undertaken. No lubrication attention is required.

The Rear Suspension Units

These are of proprietary manufacture, and require no attention apart from external cleaning. The oil required, for lubrication and damping, is put in during manufacture and does not normally need replenishment.

Speedometer Flexible Drive

Every 10,000 miles withdraw inner flex, grease and replace. See note page 48.

The Wheel Bearings

Non-adjustable journal type ball races are fitted and are packed with high melting point grease during original assembly. The supply will last for at least 20,000 miles normal road service. The hubs have to be dismantled when repacking with grease is required.

The Contact Breaker

A grease-impregnated felt pad touching the contact breaker cam keeps it lubricated. A little soft grease should be worked into the felt every 2,000 to 2,500 miles. Be very careful not to allow excess grease to reach the contact points.